Travelers' Reports – Chile:

Name:Charles Spencer
E-Mail:editor@allsouthernchile.com
Date:4/5/2006

Boca Budi and Lake Budi: Boca Budi is simply one of those places that does not get any respect. Most people that travel to Southern Chile hear a lot about Pucon and Villarrica, but very few mention the Lake Budi area, about 1 hour from Temuco Chile. On the to do list, I would put the lake (salt water lake), the Mapuche Indian hiking tours around the lake, and the great views. If you hit it about this time of year, the trails are filled with blackberries, and the hotels are mostly empty. Also, don't miss the seafood. The Mapuche new year is coming up. It runs from From June 21 to June 24.

Name:Roderick Eime
E-Mail:rodeime@iname.com
Date:10/6/2004

Hi. Last year (2003) I spent a few days on Easter Island. Spurred on by childhood memories of Erik Von Danniken's 'Chariots of the Gods', I was quickly immersed in the rich mythology of the famous Moai (statues). I've written a story on my little adventure and invite readers to visit at: http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rodeime/easter_island/. Cheers, Rod

Name:A.F. Shalders
E-Mail:karioka@mail.com
Date:12/22/2003

The lake district near Puerto Varas is a very beautiful place. I also recommend Petrohué and Puyehue National Park. Traveling in Chile is easy and safe. People are friendly and the food is great! In Puerto Montt my advice is to eat "centolla" a very big crab.

Name:Charles Wood
E-Mail:cwood7000@aol.com
Date:11/29/2003

I have made a second trip to Chile in March of 2003, along with my son and another friend. Our intent was to spend most of two weeks in Torres del Paine NP in Chile and Los Glacerios NP in Argentina. Unfortunately, torrential rains created flooding in Torres del Paine, restricting our movements for several days. Fortunately, we had a rental vehicle and had some flexibility after the waters resided. It was an extraordinary hiking/treking experience. I plan on returning in 2005.

Name:Erin
E-Mail:
Date:9/5/2002

For anyone who visits Chile in WINTER (May-August), the south may not be the most alluring place to go (cold, rainy). This is the best time to go to the northern desert, which has a different kind of beauty and very unique sights. I went to the small town of San Pedro de Atacama in June 2002. There are tours available in "town" geared towards tourists, yet it retains its small-pueblo ethnic feel. Some of the the tours take you to see the salt plains and flamingo preserve, possibly the only place to see wild Chilean flamingos. There are inexpensive horseback riding expeditions to Valle de La Luna to watch the sun set (a must, although it requires a bit of hiking too). There are also spectacular alpine lakes at high altitudes, salt caves, old stone chuches, and El Tatio Geysers, best if seen at dawn when the rising sun shines through the plumes of mist, turning them pink. During this time of year, the temperature is about 70-75 degrees farenheit in the day. However, higher altitudes can be really cold, and nightime can drop below freezing even in town, so bring your winter jacket! (By the way, rather than exchanging your currency at the bank, you can get a better exchange rate at the internet cafe.)

Name:Stef van Dongen
E-Mail:stef@worldonline.nl
Date:8/28/2002

In 2000 I have traveled through the North of Chile. From Santiago to San Pedro the Atacama. Passing: Calama, National Parc Pan Azucar, Pisco Elqui, Santiago etc.

In 2002 I visited the South of Chile. I visited: Punta Arenas, Tierra del Fuego, Puerto Williams, Puerto Natales, Torres del Paine National Park (expedition on the South Ice Cap - if you would like to have specific information about this just feel free to ask.) The Chilean part of Tierra del Fuego is amazing. An area with the size of my home country The Netherlands with only a couple of hundred of people living there.

Chile is a beautiful country. However, I would like to know your experience when passing the border to Argentina! ha ha I love Argentina especially the South part.

Name:Neil Williams
E-Mail:neil_w_williams@hotmail.com
Date:3/17/2002

Returned from northern Chile 3/2002 and the following comments may offer assistance for those travelling to the region.

If your main interest in visiting this area are the altiplano sights, I would suggest flying into Arica's Chacalluta airport, take a taxi into Arica and pick up your rental car that you have made arrangements a month or so in advance. We used Hertz jafarias@autorentas.cl (Jose Antonio Farias, manager) at their main office at Baquendano 999 rather than the smaller airport location. As to the type of vehicle to rent, we did not experience any gravel road conditions that would need more than a car, but it is best to ask for a 4-wheel drive vehicle to be sure to you have clearance and traction if needed. Ask for two additional 20 liter containers for gas and a tow cable. Fill these containers with gas before leaving for the mountains. Rental cars in Chile are more expensive than in the states – figure around US $80-110/day. With Hertz you can depend on late model vehicles and excellent tires. You may ask for a second spare although we have never had to change tires on any of our trips here.

Best time of the year to visit: Clear blue skys prevail during the year except with the rainy season beginning in January. Consult Barbara Knapton's web site for details. Lots of activities are possible all year, it's just that the crisp deep blue skies known in the altiplano are not there a few months of the year during the rainy season.

Drive during daylight: You may experience unfenced animals through the Azapa and Lluta valleys and there are no fences once you are out of the valleys. This means the Llama, Vicuna and sheep range free in the sierra and altiplano and if you have to drive after dark, drive at a speed you can stop quickly.

Getting up to Putre and the altiplano: Take Chile 11 through the LLuta valley when driving up to the mountains and Putre. Again allow half a day for this 90 mile drive for sightseeing and frequent stops to enjoy the scenery. Be aware you will gain 13,000 feet of altitude and numerous ecosystems in this distance.

Returning from Putre and the mountains: For a different way back to Arica, consider taking the gravel road that veers to the south off Chile 11 near the Carabineros station in Poconchile. This road goes over the "hill" and drops into the Azapa valley just east of San Miguel de Azapa. Travel time is actually less than if you returned via Chile 11 to Arica. This road traverses very different scenery and I think is a must. Be sure to stop at the Carabineros station in Pocanchile and ask directions to the cut-off and current conditions. It never rains in this area so there will be no wash-out worries, but there may be some construction. Shortly after the gravel road enters the paved road in the Azapa valley is the San Miguel de Azapa museum with many roadside stands selling the delicious olives from the oasis farms. Proceeding in to Arica will be the Poblado Artesanal that is a replica of an altiplano village selling typical items and right next to it is the El Tambo restaurant that is excellent and with a parking lot situated so you can watch your car while you eat.

When you return the vehicle to Hertz, they can call a taxi to pick you up at their office and drive you to the airport (30 min drive).

Although Putre to Arica is only 90 miles, you want to allow at least 4 hours to return to Arica so you can stop along the way to see all the sights you could not see behind you when you were going up.

You can purchase food and water in Putre. You likely will have to carry the extra smelly gas containers inside your vehicle, but can leave them at the place where you are staying in Putre. Just be sure to fill your tank each morning before heading out for the day. You can purchase gas in Putre (ask for the "green gas" that is unleaded) from one or two places, but it is better to get extra gas in Arica before heading up. If you have half a day left after securing your car from the rental car, you will have adequate daylight to drive liesurly to Putre (90 miles) stopping along the way to see the sights. If there is less than half day, stay the night in Arica and head to Putre next day.

You will want to overnight in Putre (13,500 ft elevation) at least 1-2 nights before heading up to the altiplano sights (14,500 ft elevation) or you will feel fair to poor for the altiplano sights. I would suggest spending the first night in Putre and the next day walk around Putre and see some of the glyphs and hot springs. You can also drive to many of the small villages in the mountains to see their church to occupy your time a day or so while acclimating to altitude. The third day you could drive up to the altiplano that is an hour or so from Putre. Allow one day to drive up to the Altiplano, stopping in Parinacota before continuing to Lacua Park. There are 3-4 places to stop and shop for typical craft items on the way and allow time to shop. Suggest always sleeping in Putre after visiting altiplano during the days to limit the discomfort of trying to sleep at altiplano altitudes until fully acclimitized.

Areas visited: Arica to Putre, Lago Chungura in Lauca National Park along excellent topped route 11. Also visited villages between Murmuntani to Belen served by a good gravel road. Gravel roads in the lower mountains and altiplano may be subject to wash out in the summer (wettest) months and conditions may be confirmed at any of the Carabineros (police) before proceeding on.

Two Best Maps: The first is JLM map No. 05 that covers from Tacna in the north to just south of Tocopilla east into Bolivia. These maps have both the trekking trails as wells as the roads, restaurants, hotels, etc noted. May order JLM maps in the US from Omni Resources www.omnimap.com and allow 3-9 months for delivery as they rely on irregular shipments from JLM in Santiago Chile. If you are in Santiago first you may try, jmattassi@interactiva.cl, phone 56-2-236-4808, Gral. del Canto #105 off 1506, Provendia, Santiago, Chile. They close Feb and first week of March for vacation. JLM also produces other trekking maps of other regions of Chile.

The second map or set of maps is the Turistel set of all of Chile and is a must to purchase. They now have some maps in English as well but this set is a must. The maps are sold in the airports and book stores throughout Chile.

Money: Forget the traveler's checks and money exchange. ATM's are everywhere. If your PIN works in Europe it will work in Chile. PIN's should be 4 digits, all numbers and not begin with 0 or 1. Use the ATM at the airport or Arica as there are none in Putre. There is a bank in Putre (no ATM).

Accomodations in Putre: We stayed at Barbara Knapton's place, Alto Andino Nature Tours or Birding Andino beknapton@hotmail.com or www.birdingaltoandino.com. She has a comfortable 2 bedroom + living area with bed that can sleep 5-6. There is a kitchen and bath with lots of hot water. There are also several other places in Putre to stay and I would urge reservations several months in advance. Putre has become a tourist stop since we were here several years back and now there several nice restaurants and a pub. For eating on the road, you can get fresh bread each morning and other food and snacks at the many small markets around town. Be sure to take at least 2 liters/person of water with you and you can now buy 5 liter plastic bottles of bottled water all over Chile including Putre.

Best two travel books for the area: Lonely Planet and Footprint Chile Handbook.

If you have questions, email me.

Neil Williams (Houston, Texas)

Name:Sharon
E-Mail:Justapip@aol.com
Date:3/22/2001

In early Febuary of this year we visited two places besides Santiago, Termas de Puyuhapi and Pargue Nacional Torres Del Paine (WOW). Termas de Puyuhapi was a wonderful Hot springs luxury experience. We arrived by boat and were met by Hotel staff (reminded one of the TV show 'Fantasy Island') The food was great and rooms and service superb. Accomodations were available to tour around with guides. Not necesarily the place to go if you're a fly fishing nut, though the guide hired tried his hardest. We left by van and traveled the southern road. Being from Montana, made us feel right at home.

Our second destination was the Lago Tyndal Hosteria just on the border of Torres de Paine National Park. The food was fine and service adequate. The generator turns off at midnight so bring your flash light. I would never recommend visiting this area without your own transportation. However, this Park is fantastic! The Towers are awesome and the glacier Grey a unique experience for us. Bit windy and cold so take your warmer clothes. But well worth seeing not only for its unique landscape but fantastic sunsets that equal Montana's Big Sky. Returning to Punta Arenas we had our driver stop at a penguin refuge that was lots of fun to walk around.

Name:Phylis L. Clark
E-Mail:clarkphylis_@hotmail.com
Date:1/29/2001

I visited my daughter and her husband and children in La Sarena, Chile. My daughter met her husband, a Chilean, in Chile. I visited in December and it was the beginning of summer. The beaches were lovely. The one thing I noticed was that the beaches looked like Southern California but without the polution or masses of people. One could almost have a beach to oneself in La Serena. I landed in Santiago and took a plane to La Sarena which seemed like a plane ride from San Francisco to Los Angeles regarding time and distance.

I was entertained both in La Serena and Santiago by relatives and friends so I can't at this time recommend hotels and restaurants. I can get more helpful information at a later time when I talk to my daughter and her husband to ask the names of the nice restaurants they took me to. I enjoyed wonderful hospitality by the people in their homes as well.

La Sarena reminded me of the California coast, as I mentioned. The people of Chile that I met were very hospitable. We went to continual barbecues which began around 9 PM and lasted till 2 and 3 AM. Everyone in the family came; there was lots of visiting (me mostly through interpreters or a person now and again who spoke English), music, dancing and eating. The schedule was different to me. I was served coffee in bed around 9 AM (toast and juice too). In the U.S., I get up at 5:30 AM, but that was not the case in Chile. They could not imagine why I would want to get up that early! They ate lunch around 2 PM. Everything closed down until late afternoon and after a leisurely lunch and a rest, back to work and shops.

The pace of life was a lot slower and family and friends were of utmost importance – not so much careers and work. Lots of discussion about politics world wide. There is a much bigger genuine interest in the rest of the world than I find in the U.S.

We walked a lot instead of driving. Daily my daughter and I walked to town and had Cappuccino in a quaint cafe. For transportation, there were buses (the lowest form of transportation) and then they had cars that followed certain routes which held as many people as would be willing to ride and that was a little more expensive than a bus and more frequent and then, of course, the Taxi and personal owned cars. More people take the transportation than own a car. Owning a car was more of a luxury than it is in the U.S.

The customs and entertainment in the homes reminded me of Europe, even to the way they cooked meals and served the variety of dishes. I felt I was in Europe. Very polite and hospitable people.

I noticed a lot of things that we take in stride in the U.S., are luxuries in Chile. Clothes are still washed by hand, streets swept by people with brooms, mail delivered on a bike and the recipient is charged for every piece of mail they receive, I guess to help pay for the service of delivery of mail. Propane gas used in abundance for stoves. Pilots only lit when using stoves or wanting warm water etc. Everything seems small in the homes. Small and European. Quaint.

Over 5,000,000 people in Santiago give the city the atmosphere of any large city. However, the driving is fast and furious and the smog is abundant. No regulations there! Very few people speak English. You are in deep trouble if you don't know Spanish or have an interpreter.

There is more I could write but this is what I can remember from my trip in December, 1994. My daughter and her husband are now living in the U.S. I have entertained her husband's family when they visited the U.S. one Christmas since then and I send them photos but can't communicate via phone or mail because I don't speak Spanish and they don't speak English. I still feel close to them and I'm close to my daughter's husband.

I would love to visit Chile again and other parts of South America.

Name:Myra Baron
E-Mail: 
Date:10/15/2000

I visited Chile in February of 2000. I really enjoyed the lake district as it reminded me of both Europe and and the Pacific Northwest combined. Farms and villages of Europe and mountains, lakes, evergreen trees and sea of the Pacific Northwest. The nicest place that I stayed was in a small town east of Puerto Varas by the name of Ensenada. Prior to traveling to Chile, I found a web site about a Lodge by the name of, Yan Kee Way. It looked great from the photos. It was even better when I arrived. It is right on the shore of Lake Llanquihue with a beautiful view of Osorno Volcano. I spent several days there relaxing and participating in a number of the adventure activities offered by the lodge. I know that they also offer fly-fishing (although I do not fish) as I visited with and listened to the fish stories of some of the people who were there to fish. They have beautiful facilities and a wonderful restaurant with a very big wine list. On my next trip to Chile again I will definitely stay there again.

Text

Name:Carolyn Clark
E-Mail:yos@oberon.ark.com
Date:4/30/2000

I visited Puerto Montt, Puerto Varas, Osorno, the Island of Chileo and the surrounding areas in January 2000.  I was visiting my son, his wife and their 4 year old daughter.  My son is working for a fish farm which takes about four hours travel time south to get to from Puerto Montt, although it's not 100 miles.  There is a ferry and you must pass through a small town which was called Rio Negro.  It has had a name change to Hornopiren because there was another Rio Negro nearby.  After Hornopiren there is about another hour of very bad road to get to the place where my son and his family live.

This part of Chile is breathtakingly beautiful.  It is lush and green.  I am from Vancouver Island, Canada and found the vegetation similar to my own area.  Although I stayed on the ocean, I saw no seagulls. I saw a native bush with flowers that looked like a miniature fushia plant.

I saw playgrounds with merry-go-rounds, big slides and other rides which you don't see in Canada anymore.  I remember them from my childhood (I'm 52), but they are considered dangerous now.  I was in Chile during the election and I saw election posters hung from electric wires.  Then after the election I saw workers lean the ladders against the electric wires and remove the posters.  I was stunned.  It seems that Chileans are not nearly as regulated as Canadians are and are given responsibility for taking care of their own safety.  I don't necessarily agree with some of the risks I saw taken, but it's nice not to have a law governing every single movement.

I saw the cowboys (that's not the right name) on horses, wearing flat black hats and colourful blankets – not on display in the cities, but riding on remote back roads.  I saw small groups of cows taking the right-of-way on roads and bridges.  I saw the most beautiful gardens with huge geraniums which do not die in the winter because it doesn't freeze, I suppose.  Every town has a lovely park or square with statues, benches and people resting and walking.

About the election: people traveled back to their home towns before voting.

I was introduced to yerba mate.  I am looking for places to buy authentic mate.  This is a very healthy herb tea which gives a person a noticeable energy boost.

I found the people to be very gracious and formal.  I was kissed many, many times on both cheeks.  I was charmed by the manners and friendliness of the people.  English is almost non-existent in the places I visited.  My Spanish, although I did have some lessons, was also almost non-existent, but communication was not that difficult.  Chilean Spanish does not sound the same as Mexican Spanish.  I guess it's a combination of a different accent and different slang words.  Like toilet paper, for instance, is called Kung For – I suppose it is a brand name.

In the grocery stores I encountered beggars – right in the aisles of the stores.  Also, an attendant weights fruit and vegetables at the bins rather than waiting until you get to the checkout.  I say very young boys – definitely younger than 16, working in grocery stores.

I noticed that Pureto Montt has recently acquired a MacDonalds.  That's a shame because the Chilean food is very good and MacDonalds is a nutritional graveyard.  However, it is hugely popular with the children and they will no doubt begin to get some of the health problems – noticeably obesity – that plague North American fast food fanatics.

I don't remember seeing any fat people.  I also noticed that most people, unless obviously very poor, wear good leather footwear.  You don't see a lot of running shoes.

I would like to hear from other Chilean travelers and would also like to know if anyone knows whether "Aceite de Rosa Mosqueta" and "yerba mate" are available in Canada.

Name:Helen Gostlow
E-Mail:gostlowh@aso.com.au
Date:3/15/2000

I spent two weeks in Chile in January 2000 and found it to be a most fascinating place, and one of much variety. We traveled by bus from Ushuaia in Argentina, through Chilean Tierra del Fuego, across the Magellan Straits and then on to Puerto Natales, a very picturesque port, with some great restaurants, but very bad vegetables. After many ensaladas, we really wanted some vegetables, and do you think we could find anything in Puerto Natales that wasn't mouldy. I think we managed one very bendy carrot. We worked out the reason for this, we think. The only way into Puerto Natales from northern Chile is by a 3 day boat trip through the fjords, or a road through Argentina, and fruit and vegetables are not allowed over the border from Argentina. So the only way to get them there other than by plane is by a long boat trip, through fairly damp conditions. Anyway enough about fruit. From Puerto Natales, we headed north and into Argentina to El Calafate, and the Perito Moreno glacier, definitely a must, thrilling.

I would love to explore more of Chile, particularly further north in the Valdivian forest, and the deserts.

Please email me if you have any questions. I have rushed through this a bit, but you know where I have been, so I can give you detail if you require.

Name:Ian BUNTON - Melbourne - AUSTRALIA
E-Mail:ian.bunton@doi.vic.gov.au
Date: 

I was in Patagonia - Argentina & Chile in Feb-March 1998. I thoroughly recommend the following two newish hotels. In Puerto Natales (Chile) the Hotel Martin Gusinde which was opened in late 1997. Very comfortable and helpful staff although a bit of Spanish helps. They were very informative on the town itself the surrounding region and info on Torres del Paine N.P.

In El Chalten - Los Glaciares N.P. Monte Fitz Roy - try the Hosteria de la Montania run by Fitz Roy Expediciones.It opened in Jan ? 1998. I was the first Australian to stay there It is only a 2 suite small lodging but was very new, well-appointed and warm ! The staff were great and could not have been more helpful. Guides are available for many treks - Mont Fitz Roy area and Cerro Torre.

I hope to go there again soon ! Please let me know if you need any further info.

Name:Erhard Kraus
E-Mail:erhard@interlog.com
Date:6/4/1999

It's nice to see this excellent website and the many enthusiastic comments by fellowtravelers. South America is not (yet?) overrun with tourists and thus can offer trueadventure and discovery.

If you care to see what a guy on a bicycle experienced in Patagonia, take a look at my report on http://www.yip.org/~erhard/patagoni.htm

Cheers, Erhard

Name:Berta Pires
E-Mail:hippo@kelt.com
Date:1/11/1999

I've just came back from Chile. I'd like to share my dismal experience in Torres del Paine and to warn future travelers not to book at the Cabanas del Paine or do any business with Turismo Cabo de Hornos or Aventour, both based in Punta Arenas. I paid for 3 nights at the Cabanas del Paine from my home travel agency in California but when I arrived at the park I spent only one night at the Cabanas and got bumped to hosteria Balmaceda and was stuck there for 2 days without a boat back. I've learned later that Aventour would only allow guests to stay at the Cabanas for one night even if you've booked for more than one night and then bump them to Balmaceda. This way they can get more customers. Cabanas is located at the Serrano river and there's no bridge to get there. Once you arrive, you are totally dependent on them. Balmaceda is located at the foot of the Serrano glacier. It takes about 2 hrs by boat to get back to the Cabanas. By foot it's a 2 days journey. Once you're in Balmaceda, you're totally dependent on Aventour to get back to the park. And there's nothing else to do in Balmaceda and you were forced to eat their food because there's only one restaurant there. I tried unsuccessfully to get a boat back to the park but they wouldn't let me, knowing that once I was back at the Cabanas, I wouldn't want to return to Balmaceda.

I met 2 British couples who were stuck at Balmaceda for 2 days and they had booked 4 nights at the Cabanas but hadn't even been there yet. They too booked through Turismo Cabo de Hornos and they in turn used Aventour for all their Torres del Paine arrangements. Later that day another American couple got bumped and arrived at Balmaceda very angry. I had wanted to hike in the park but was stuck in Balmaceda. I only spent one night at Cabanas, arriving there around 11PM. The next morning they rushed me to the boat to go to Balmaceda. I hadn't even seen the park, nor the towers, nor the Saltos. My entire stay at Paine was reduced to reading my book at the hosteria Balmaceda. The British couples and I had dubbed the park Towers of Pain.

Later in Petrohue I met a girl who'd been to Paine several years ago. She told me at a hotel in Punta Arenas, she asked for the phone number for Hosteria de las Torres. They told her to go to the Cabanas del Paine instead. So, it's all a big scam, they all work together to trap you. AVENTOUR, TURISMO CABO DE HORNOS, CABANAS DEL PAINE AND HOSTERIA BALMACEDA IS A SCAM TO LURE TOURISTS. DO NOT GO THERE!

Name:Christine
E-Mail:carglo@ivillage.com
Date:8/24/1998

Traveled in Chile for one year (1992-94). Spent most of my time in southern Chile, in Temuco and the surrounding areas. If you are there, you shouldn't miss 'cerro nielol', a national monument, and the 'mercado municipal', an indoor artisan shopping center. There is a great Araucanian museum on Avenida Alemania if you are interested in the indigenous culture of the area. Pucon and Villarica are not too far away. These cities have great scenery of the lake and volcano. Spent some time in the desert up north. Mostly, la serena, and surrounding. Several good places to visit paying homage to Gabriela Mistral, Nobel Prize winning poet. Great seafood in all areas, excellent hospitality. Eat the empanadas, and ensalada chilena . . . very good. Residential rooms were the most comfortable and best way to learn about the area. It's pretty safe to hitchhike here.

Name:David Wittman
E-Mail:wittman@physics.bell-labs.com
Date:5/9/1998

I visited Chile's Torres del Paine National Park in January and loved it. Rather than bore people with the details here, I've posted a report at www.david.wittman.com/tdp.html. Bottom line: it's beautiful, and Chile in general is great. Pick up Lonely Planet's guide to Chile and start planning.

[Editor's Note: David's site has excellent information for those planning to hike or camp in Torres del Paine N.P. In January 1999, David visited Pucon and the surrounding area in Chile's Lake District.  His site now includes photographs and useful information about climbing, rafting, biking and other activities in this spectacular area.  Check out: www.david.wittman.com/pucon.html]

Name:Erik Sandin
E-Mail:elsandin@students.wisc.edu
Date:1/1/1998

Chile, miscellaneous notes: Kiss the toe of the Indian in the statue of Columbus (Colon) in Torres del Paine and (it is said) you will return some day. [Editor's Note: The statue referred to is, I believe, in the Plaza de Armas in Punta Arenas and features Magellan.] Confirm Lake District is gorgeous. Beaches nice at La Serena (unfortunately rampantly developed), but not famous ViAa del Mar, which was too polluted to swim at in '92 (the city of ViAa itself is very nice, though). Be warned that it rains a LOT in the Lake District. Advise visit in (southern hemisphere's) summer. Train ride from Santiago to Lake District is spectacular. Book a private compartment to feel like a passenger on the Orient Express. Try out your German on the numerous German-speaking Chilenos in the Lake District and South of there. (Not to mention tourists). Around Santiago, visit Cerro Santa Lucia for a most bizarrely furnished park and also see Pablo Neruda's houses. Saltos (rapids/waterfalls) de Petrohue in P.N. Osorno (in shadow of volcano of same name) are incredible! Bluest water I've ever seen. Roads near Osorno (the volcano in the Lake District) may very well be washed out in (southern hemisphere's) spring. Does anyone know if touring the international observatories (como Arecibo) in the North is permitted? For people familiar with South America but not Chile, be warned--things run on time! The Atacama desert in the North is beautiful (but serious!--go with a commercial travel line if you aren't familiar with the country). Check out hot springs, gorgeous rock formations and flamingos. Visit the world's largest open-pit copper mine at Chuqicamata--the scale is boggling. Confirm that the wind in Punta Arenas and the vicinity of the Torres in P. N. Torres del Paine is amazing. Chose a poor tent site in the latter and the tent was literally flattened. Confirm that Torres del Paine is worth traveling around the world to visit. !Viva Chile y Chilenos!

Name:Claudya Greig
E-Mail:cfhsblue@netw.com
Date:8/31/1997

If ever there was a Garden of Eden it must have been in Chile. I know, I lived there for 28 years. My children still do. They are very happy there and have nothing to envy the good ol' U.S.A. for. If I can be of any help to people who are traveling to this wonderful country, please let me know. Please e-mail me at cfhsblue@netw.com